Jarrod Rawlins’ guide to Hobart

Interviewed by Dan F Stapleton

Jarrod Rawlins has been a curator at the avant garde Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) in Tasmania’s capital of Hobart since 2013. A fiercely loyal adopted Tasmanian, Jarrod says Hobart’s unconventional residents and farm-to-table foodie culture set it apart from the mainland capital cities. His insider’s guide features a mix of the glamorous and the understated – from agenda-setting restaurants to hidden pockets of nature.

Outdoor secret spot: Knocklofty Reserve

“Knocklofty is a gem of a reserve, with walking and running trails winding up and down a small hill between Hobart city and nearby Mount Wellington. I take a morning run or walk up there a number of days a week to watch the sun rise over the city and the river. The reserve is a haven for native flora and fauna: it contains more than 300 native plant species. The Friends of Knocklofty Bushcare Group has also transformed an old dam in the reserve into a wetland habitat, which is now full of frogs happily calling to one another.”

Lesser known suburb: West Hobart

“WeHo, as its inhabitants like to call West Hobart, sits between the city centre and Knocklofty Reserve and is home to a number of excellent cafés and speciality grocers. It is also where you’ll find the gym I use, Artgym, which is a hidden highlight of Hobart’s culture. Artgym has a family atmosphere – it’s supportive, creative and fun – and there is good art on the walls! Afterwards, I like to visit Pigeon Hole Café on Goulburn Street for great local produce and excellent coffee.”

Eat Street: Elizabeth and Patrick streets

“Most of the guides to Hobart mention Elizabeth Street for food. It’s a long road that extends for suburb after suburb – and there is great food there, don’t get me wrong. But rather than list the usual suspects, I am going to say Patrick Street, in West Hobart, is my personal favourite because one of my most-loved restaurants, Templo, is on it. Templo has amazing Italian-inspired food and excellent vegetarian options in a cosy space with great wine – and it’s only five minutes’ walk from my house.”

Favourite bar: Faro at MONA

“Faro is by far my favourite bar in Hobart. The art, the food and drink, the amazing MONA staff and the view of MONA’s brutal facade as you sit suspended over the River Derwent make for a really special experience. The crowd is diverse: sophisticated people, rowdy people, rowdy sophisticated people, sometimes grumpy people, happy people...all types. Oh, and there is a cocktail that has a pig’s eye in it – enough said.”

Destination shopping experience: Farm Gate Market

“A trip to Farm Gate Market is one of my favourite ways to spend a morning in Hobart. The market sets up on a temporarily closed Bathurst Street in the city on Sundays, whatever the weather. If you’re looking for good Tasmanian produce and ready-to-eat food, this is the place. I love going down for breakfast and coffee, and returning home with fresh veg, truffles, flowers and baked goods – it’s all there.”

Only in Hobart: Masaaki’s Sushi 

“Only in Hobart can you order the best sushi I have ever eaten – and that includes breakfast at the old Tsukiji ‘inner’ market in Tokyo. Sure, Masaaki’s Sushi is technically based in the town of Geeveston, an hour’s scenic drive south-west of Hobart, but proprietor Masaaki Koyama still manages to deliver to Hobart on Friday evenings if you can’t make the drive and you’re organised enough to place an order. Having said that, the drive is definitely worth making – it’s something you can only do in Hobart, and Masaaki’s sushi is nothing short of a miracle.”

Favourite hotel: Lenna of Hobart

“The 19th-century sandstone mansion Lenna of Hobart is the property I recommend to visitors. Before I moved to Hobart, this is where I would stay when I visited Tassie, which was often. The handsome, Tasmanian Heritage Register-listed Italianate mansion, overlooking the city’s waterfront at Salamanca Place, boasts two penthouses, which can be combined to form a five-bedroom penthouse, as well as a family suite and a range of smaller rooms. I still like a pre-dinner drink in the bar there – the Chandelier Lounge Bar – before walking to nearby Battery Point or the waterfront for a meal. The terrace also makes for a great private breakfast meeting spot.”