Sydney suburb guide

Where to eat: Cool down with a scoop or two from Gelato Messina in Bondi, or dress your best for a night out at the glamorous Icebergs Dining Room and Bar. In Coogee, stop in for a meal at the Art Deco Coogee Pavilion, where the menu ranges from slow-roasted cauliflower to mouth-watering burgers. Hugos Manly is the chic dining option here, but nothing beats fish and chips by the beach, preferably from Fishmongers Manly. 

Where to play: Stretch your legs on the famous Bondi to Coogee coastal walk or browse for bargains among the stalls at Bondi’s weekend markets or the boutique outlets lining Gould Street. Coogee Beach is Bondi’s more relaxed, family-friendly neighbour, with its seaside children’s playgrounds and inviting ocean pools, such as Wylie’s Baths. Just a half-hour (and very beautiful) ferry ride from the city centre, the buzzy neighbourhood of Manly has perfected the laidback holiday lifestyle. Swim or snorkel at the sheltered Shelly Beach – the area is home to Cabbage Tree Bay aquatic reserve, a protected area perfect for spotting marine life. The 10-kilometre (six-mile) Manly to Spit Bridge Walk is one of Sydney’s most spectacular hikes – a bush trail that winds its way past hidden beaches, Aboriginal rock carvings and ancient oyster middens. 

Where to stay: Check into the stylish QT Bondi hotel or the Art Deco Hotel Ravesis and the best of Bondi is within easy reach. Treat yourself to a night at the historic Q Station at North Head, or stay steps from Manly Life Saving Club at The Sebel. In Coogee, bed down opposite the beach in the historic Coogee Bay Hotel.

Where to eat: In Surry Hills, start your day with a single-origin coffee from Reuben Hills or Artificer Coffee, or dine on ricotta hotcakes at Bill’s in Darlinghurst, the first outpost in chef Bill Granger’s global brunch empire. Make your way to Potts Point to people-watch over a delicious Italian lunch at Fratelli Paradiso, moving onto cosy wine bar Dear Sainte Eloise for an aperitif before dinner at Lankan Filling Station in Darlinghurst.

Where to play: In Surry Hills, browse Crown Street’s clothes, homewares and accessories stores (try Chilli Coral and The Standard Store) before visiting the Brett Whiteley Studio, where one of Sydney’s most-loved artists lived and worked. For a post-dinner drink, try another one of Darlinghurst’s small bars such as Love, Tilly Devine or Shady Pines Saloon, or head to one of the many LGBTQIA+ venues along the Oxford Street strip including The Colombian. 

Where to stay: There are plenty of boutique hotels tucked away in this area; among the most appealing is Surry Hills’ Paramount House Hotel, which has built a loyal following thanks to its neighbourhood vibe. Also in Surry Hills, the Little Albion guesthouse welcomes travellers with pets, while visitors keen to soak up Potts Point’s heritage will love Spicers Potts Point.

Where to eat: Fuel up with a beef bourguignon pie from La Renaissance patisserie or make a booking at Quay, one of Sydney’s best restaurants, where chef Peter Gilmore serves up elegant degustation dinners. Barangaroo is home to in-demand restaurants such as Cirrus as well as the sleek Banksii Vermouth Bar and Bistro. 

Where to play: Few Sydney neighbourhoods are as atmospheric as The Rocks, with its cobblestone streets and centuries-old sandstone buildings. After a visit to the waterfront Museum of Contemporary Art, admire the photogenic warehouses at Campbells Cove before taking a stroll through the dramatic Argyle Cut – built with the aid of convict labour. This will take you to the new district of Barangaroo. Continue along the waterfront to reach Darling Harbour, where the SEA LIFE Aquarium enchants children of all ages with its dugongs, penguins, tropical fish and, above all, the underwater tunnels where sharks and stingrays glide above you. Right next door, WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo offers encounters with kangaroos, koalas and crocodiles, while at the far end of Darling Harbour sits the much-loved Powerhouse Museum, which tackles topics ranging from science and technology to fashion and film. 

Where to stay: There’s no shortage of places to stay around here; in Darling Harbour, treat yourself to a night at ultra-luxe hotel The Darling, or for a more playful vibe, book into the Ovolo 1888. In The Rocks, stay in the stylishly converted Harbour Rocks Hotel.

Where to eat: Kensington Street is Chippendale’s eat street, home to cheap and cheerful eateries. On Meagher street you'll find the much-lauded Ester, but for a super local dining experience, head to Marrickville, where the area’s thriving Greek and Vietnamese populations are reinventing modern Australian cuisine at the likes of Barzaari and Hello Auntie.

Where to play: Grab a takeaway coffee on Newtown’s King Street (from the likes of Handcraft Specialty Coffee) and enjoy a morning of vintage clothing shopping before heading to neighbouring Chippendale to take in some contemporary Chinese art at White Rabbit Gallery and admire architect Jean Nouvel’s eye-catching One Central Park building, complete with hanging gardens. (Also nearby is Frank Gehry’s Dr Chau Chak Wing Building, which has been described as resembling a squashed paper bag.)

Where to stay: Hit the hay in style at The Old Clare, a boutique hotel housed in Chippendale’s former Carlton & United Brewery building, or roll into bed at Newtown’s historic Sydney Park Hotel after a nightcap at one of King Street’s lively pubs.