Gourmet getaway in and around Geelong  

Let the Bellarine Taste Trail, a curated network of nearly 50 food and wine destinations on the peninsula, be your guide to those juicy bits. Stock up on pantry staples at Wildings, purveyor of all things handmade (think sticky chilli jam and fragrant yet fiery Saharan harissa spice rub); peruse the array of sustainably sourced smoked fish at the ‘shed door’ of husband-and-wife-run Bellarine Smokehouse; take a guided tasting of cold-pressed, locally made extra virgin olive oils at Lighthouse; pluck juicy, ripe blueberries from the bush at Tuckerberry Hill Berry Farm; or, if you’re here on the third Saturday of the month, buy goods straight from the source at Bellarine Community Farmers’ Market in the seaside town of Ocean Grove between 9am and 1pm. 

Your afternoons could be spent dining al fresco on fresh shellfish at rustic bayside eatery The Little Mussel Cafe. Portarlington mussels and Angasi oysters are delivered directly to the café kitchen by the farmers at parent company Advance Mussel Supply. From here, it’s less than a 10-minute drive to the peninsula’s boutique wineries, many of which are family-owned and operated. With an industry that began in the mid-1800s, when it was introduced by early Swiss settlers, the Bellarine Peninsula produces cool-climate maritime wines, and is well-known for its chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz. 

Sample Scotchmans Hill’s premium reds and whites at its impossibly cosy cellar door, modelled on a provincial French farmhouse; whiz around Leura Park Estate’s sea of vineyards on a Segway tour; or try minimal-intervention wines with a side-serve of arresting Corio Bay views at Jack Rabbit. 

If wine isn’t your thing, don’t fret: there’s a ‘distillery door’ just around the corner from this clutch of wineries, providing small-batch gin infused with native botanicals, and a single malt whisky planned for 2021 release, all from a revamped shed. Alternatively, there’s Flying Brick Cider House, which supplies locals with its fix of tart, fruity homebrewed nectar made with all-Australian apples. 

Stay: Rather than heading out for dinner, soak up the wild, rural beauty that envelops Lon Retreat, and dine in from the comfort of your room. This modern, seven-suite hideaway in the sleepy township of Point Lonsdale, near Queenscliff, is surrounded by greenery, with a tantalising sliver of ocean visible on the horizon. Hearty, wholesome dishes are available to order, making it the perfect base for a couple of nights.

Full from your Q Train adventure, it’s time to make your way towards Geelong, around a 20-minute drive away. En route, make a pitstop at Geelong icon Little Creatures Village in the city’s south. The historic textile mill now houses not one, but two cavernous breweries – Little Creatures and White Rabbit. Take a behind-the-scenes tour in the former, and settle in for a speciality, barrel-aged brew at the latter.  

Following today’s lavish lunch, try something a little more low-key for dinner. Award-winning casual diner Tulip toys with an array of culinary techniques, promises stellar execution and offers reasonable prices. Or dial down the mood another notch and make for laneway outfit The Good Beer Bar, where you can dip into a tasting paddle and mop up the brews with some bar snacks. 

Stay: Check into Devlin Apartments for the night. Bringing a hint of New York-inspired loft living to Geelong, the four-star apartments are housed in a heritage-listed building that dates back to 1926.     

Time for a light lunch at The Arborist Geelong: a share-plate-focused restaurant that takes flavour cues from the Mediterranean and Middle East. In summer, bathe in the sun’s rays on the deck with a glass of sparkling in hand; come winter curl up inside on a leather banquette and dine on spicy, warming dishes such as chargrilled squid with chermoula marinade and harissa. 

Jumping back in the car, drive out to The Old Paper Mills at Fyansford (less than 10 minutes from Devlin Apartments) on the city’s fringe. This restored 1870s bluestone complex is now a hub for arts and design, featuring a clutch of artists’ studios, plus an independent jeweller, a handcrafted homewares store and a boutique award-winning winery. Situated on the Barwon River, there are also leafy walking tracks and waterfalls to explore. 

Go out with a bang, by booking a table (in advance) at Geelong institution, Igni. This celebrated degustation diner is arguably responsible for kickstarting the city’s destination dining scene. Meaning ‘from fire’ in Latin, Igni’s output revolves around dishes blistered to smoky charcoal perfection. 

Well-fed and watered, either retire for one more night in town at Devlin Apartments or head straight back to Melbourne, an easy hour’s drive from here.