Guide de la banlieue de Melbourne

Where to eat: Walk or take a free City Circle tram to the Queen Victoria Market on Queen Street. The largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere, it holds an enticing array of food from some of Australia’s best producers, as well as stalls where you can pick up quirky souvenirs. Another highlight to add to your list are central Melbourne’s artsy lanes, covered in larger-than-life murals from some of the world’s most talented street artists. Here you’ll discover hole-in-the-wall restaurants like Supernormal, where Pan-Asian bites are served at communal benches by prolific Melbourne chef Andrew McConnell, and perennially popular tapas joint MoVida. 

Where to play: Stock up on supplies and enjoy a picnic on one of the Yarra River’s electric GoBoats. Disembark at Southbank and walk it off along this one-kilometre (0.6-mile) riverfront stretch, with plenty of opportunities along the way for people-watching and shopping at big-brand boutiques. Continue southward for world-leading exhibitions at the National Gallery of Victoria before exploring the city centre's underground jazz clubs (slink into Paris Cat), cafés (grab one of the city’s best coffees at Café Issus) and bars (sip creative cocktails at Eau-De-Vie).

Where to stay: Rest up (or continue to play) at the Notel hotel, where you'll find six 1970s Airstream trailers on the rooftop. Or, inspired by the city’s laneway art, Ovolo Laneways is an affordable but fun central option. At Southbank, luxury hotel The Langham has the best rooftop pool in town.

Where to eat: Wander along St Kilda's bustling Esplanade, where you’ll pass The Espy complex on the other side of the street, home to an abundance of scene-stealing restaurants. Grab coffee and cake from Monarch Cakes, serving decadent desserts since 1934. Tuck into fish-and-chips on St Kilda Beach from Paper Fish, which sits underneath the more formal dining room of Stokehouse, with its sleek décor and sublime sea views. Walk a minute or two south and you’ll reach Donovans, a restaurant designed to feel like a private home – right down to the fact the owners change the decor every few months.

Where to play: Check out the Esplanade's pop-up stalls which have been going every Sunday since 1970. Continue walking and you’ll reach landmark amusement complex, Luna Park, the oldest theme park in Australia, and offering plenty of Insta-worthy photo opportunities in front of the enormous mouth of “Mr Moon” that serves as the entry. Head beachward to rent bikes or roller-skates, dip into historic sea baths or stroll waterfront promenades south toward Elwood, Elsternwick and Brighton (a visit to the latter’s beach bathing boxes is a must). 

Where to stay: Book St Kilda’s Art Deco Prince Hotel for a beachside stay in beautiful interiors. 

Where to eat: Start your day at the Prahran Market for deli goods galore and a piping hot coffee. Eateries abound – try Hawker Hall in Windsor for modern Asian food in a buzzy warehouse, or opt for weekend breakfast at Angus & Bon in Prahran, known for having some of the city’s best coffee – and that’s saying something in this caffeine-obsessed town. In the evening, dine at applauded Matilda 159 Domain in the boutique United Places hotel, where chef Scott Pickett uses wood-fired ovens and smokers to cook local produce to perfection. Continue your evening over on Chapel Street at Borsch Vodka & Tears for vodka shots (there are 100+ varieties on the menu) or The Woods for Prohibition-era style cocktails.

Where to play: You could spend all day touring themed floral displays in the Royal Botanic Gardens, set on a particularly pretty curve of the Yarra River. It’s a 15-minute walk south-east from the gardens to Chapel Street, where retail outlets blend a mix of upscale and edgy big-brands and independent boutiques. Detour toward bohemian boutiques on Greville Street before catching a live music performance at the historic Chapel off Chapel.

Where to stay: At the end of the night, flop into bed at chic art hotel The Cullen, named for the late Australian artist Adam Cullen, in Prahran. In South Yarra, The Como Melbourne offers another stylish local sleeping option. Or wake up overlooking the Royal Botanic Gardens at United Places.

Where to eat: Begin your day with coffee from speciality roasters Top Paddock in Richmond or Proud Mary. On a match day, the legendary Corner Hotel is the place to go for cold beers, live music and counter meals, but nearby fine-dining restaurants also beckon; try Minamishima for omakase-style sushi, or Ides for seasonal degustations.

Where to play: For a spot of shopping, head to Bridge Road or villagey Swan Street to peruse eclectic stores. Then hail a taxi to Abbotsford Convent, a historic creative hub along the Yarra River, which now hosts gorgeous gardens and spaces for live performances. Families will want to continue on to the adjoining Collingwood Children’s Farm, where young visitors can meet farm animals and pull vegetables straight from the soil. Follow fans toward Richmond’s Melbourne Cricket Ground and Rod Laver Arena – the former hosts Australian rules football matches in winter and cricket in summer; the latter is home to the Australian Open, the first of four Grand Slam tennis tournaments held around the world on the annual calendar.  

Where to stay: Rest your head in a character-filled room at Element Melbourne Richmond or if you're looking for an easy stroll to Melbourne Cricket Ground, Richmond’s Lanbruk Apartment Hotel is particularly handy for catching a match.

Where to eat: Restaurants in Carlton’s Little Italy draw a loyal following for good reason. Lygon Street is the heart of this dining precinct, where you’ll also find design-driven Zagame’s House hotel, with its cosy Lord Lygon wine bar. Take a walk and discover the mind-boggling array of eateries just steps from your lodgings including Carlton Wine Room, known for its handmade pasta and excellent Italian wine list. Eat your way around the world on Brunswick’s Sydney Road, where a perfect day’s culinary snapshot looks like: Code Black for coffee (roasted on the premises), The Everleigh for creative cocktails, a mod-Australian dinner at Cutler & Co, and jazz and wine at The Night Cat.

Where to play: Explore the Melbourne Museum in Carlton Gardens with its collection of natural and cultural history artefacts; catch a film at gloriously retro Cinema Nova; shop vintage fashion and bookstores along Brunswick Street; and dance the night away to live music at The Old Bar. 

Where to stay: Zagame’s House hotel or overlooking Fitzroy Gardens, or the Park Hyatt Melbourne offers a luxurious base for exploring the neighbourhood.